Cadgwith is the most charming place I saw during our Cornwall trip. Thinking about it, I still can smell the salty breeze and again see these charming old cottages before my eyes.
Why did I decide to write about Cadgwith?
We stayed in a pretty former fisherman’s cottage in St Ives, Cornwall. Since I heard much praise about the city before, and it was pretty clear to me that this would be Cornwalls place to write about. No question, St Ives is great: 5 sandy beaches, a lively artist scene, accordingly creative cafes, small shops selling local products, excellent restaurants with food from various countries and then a charming labyrinth of lanes. From St Ives harbor you may still see some fishing boats starting for their daily trip, but it now comes closer to a seaside resort than to a fishing village. Yet the decision to stay here was a good one. In fall St Ives is pleasant, but it is already crowded. I don’t think that I would feel comfortable to meet the even larger crowds in summer. After having finished a journey, I always dedicate the “My Camera Loves” article to the one place with that certain “je ne sais quoi”. My selection is based both on visual impressions and on the atmosphere. It must a place to enjoy Slow Life, where sauntering and lingering just feels good. Cadgwith was this special place for me in Cornwall.
Village on the wild Lizard Peninsula
The one-lane road to Cadgwith, which is surrounded by dense hedges, is adventurous and narrow. Sometimes you have to swerve and drive at a snail’s pace or in the worst case head backwards to a – hopefully nearby – wider place to pass. The oncoming British drivers passed us friendly and smiling. Immediately I thought to myself: Nice people seem to live in Cadgwith … We had to leave the car at a parking ground above the village. We liked the fact that cars are mostly kept out of town. The Lizard Peninsula, where Cadgwith is located, is known for its abundant flora and fauna. We were able to convince ourselves of it at the moment we arrived. A robin red breast bird jumped under the driver’s seat after Chris got out of the car. Obviously, these birds do not only eat spiders and worms, but also chips. The naughty but cute bird seemed to like the salty, very English chips with vinegar as much as we did and picked up a few crumbs. Like the other locals, it wasn´t shy at all. The villagers continued with their kindness, which we had already encountered on our way to the village. After our arrival they greeted us warmly when we passed.
A walk through the village and a salty breeze
On our way to the atmospheric fishing port, we watched a couple of locals devotedly renovating their thatched cottages. Cottages are generally smaller houses, originally inhabited by fishermen or simple farmers. Today people often rent them as holiday homes. I am generally in love with these picturesque cozy little houses. In Cadgwith some cottages have blue transom windows, which compliments the maritime flair of the place. Most of the cottages in the the village at the edge of Lizard Peninsula, which has been inhabited since the 16th century, are made of natural stone. Down the beach you can see fishing boats. You will pass the village pub, which, like almost everywhere else in England, also offers beer outdoor seating in a beergarden, where we could even catch the sun in late October. The “Cadgwith Cove Inn” looks like a picture book. On Tuesdays and Fridays, shanty songs are sung there. Unfortunately, I could not witness it.
Cliff walks very close by
Following the road upwards, we soon stood on a green hill with a mind-blowing view over the ocean, the beach and the village. There are benches where you can sit down and breathe the wonderful salty air. And so I did. After turning left we arrived at a beautiful cliff trail that offered sweeping views on the rugged and green nature and the rough sea as well. Sheep graze in this area. My fear of heights was a bit challenged on the edge of the high cliffs. However, pleasure outweighed my fear by far.
Cadgwith: A place of longing for me
Thinking of our time in Cadgwith, I still can feel the salty breeze in my nose. It was even more intense due to the wind. This makes me long for this secluded place. I have noticed once again that I feel especially touched by the remote places of the world. In the future I will increasingly search for off-the beaten-track-like places. And I promised one thing to myself: if I sometimes want to take a time off for a few days – without traveling around – then this will be the place to go.
More recommendations for a trip to Cadgwith
- A car is helpful when traveling to Cadgwith. You can go from Redruth and Helston to Cadgwith by bus, but that does not take you directly to the village. Keep in mind that the streets are very narrow.
- Cadgwith is a great destination for a daytrip when you stay in St Ives or anywhere else in west Cornwall.
- A visit to the village can be extended with trips to other wonderful spots on the Lizard Peninsula. I recommend you to drive to Lizard Point and have tea or coffee on the terrace of England’s southernmost café. There you will have a magnificent view over the sea and the coast. Cornwall has lots of little sweet coffees and this is a very nice one. If you’re lucky you can watch seals swimming below the café. To encounter seals in Cornwall was a very touching experience for me.
- Even the beautiful bay “Kynance Cove” is located not far from Cadgwith. The beach is considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Here you will find very interesting terrain for hiking. In the rugged area you feel a bit like hiking in the Alps. I found the green and craggy mountain landscape with the turquoise sea in the background very charming and unique.
If you liked my article, you might also be interested in my blog post on the picturesque village Limone at Lake Garda in Italy.
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